Half Bottle: Pouilly Fume Villa Paulus 2020, Domaine Masson

From vines grown on two types of soil (Marne and Calcaire), giving the wine a terrific balance and depth but with that smokey richness that only Pouilly-Fume can achieve. This has a delightful laser-sharp, crisp acidity and is bursting with greengage fruit backed up with a solid structure and earthy minerality. The smokey, gooseberry Sauvignon character reveals itself in a lingering and subtly pervasive aftertaste.

Jean-Michel Masson is passionate about his wines (he makes excellent Pouilly-Fume and some very good red Sancerre) and this motivation is reflected in the sheer quality of his produce. He strives to produce wines as in keeping with the unique terroirs of his vineyards as possible.

This is very much a family domaine with his wife Michelle, daughter Melanie and son Pierre. The entire family always seems to be happy and smiling and they clearly enjoy a good laugh - often at the expense of their customers.

Other wines we are delighted to import from this estate include his Tradition Cullus which is a 'Vieille Vignes' selection, a third of which is vinified and aged in new oak, the remainder being tank-fermented and aged. The grapes are sourced from 1.50 hectares of 40-75 year-old vines situated on a mix of Marne clay and Silex-flint. The resulting wine has amazing depth, structure and complexity, with overtones of acacia, honey, nuts and a very rich fruitiness. For the first time, we have persuaded Jean-Michel to let us have some of his Sancerre Blanc from the Thauvenay vineyard. It is distinctly rich and zesty with more weight than the Laporte version due to the very different terroir at Thauvenay. It has plenty of minerality and clean, gooseberry fruit and fine length. Last but not least a delightfully fruity red Sancerre from the Pinot Noir grape which can do so well in this corner of France.