A decidedly hot and dry region situated about 150km to the east of Cape Town, in the Breede River valley, that has always been famous for its race-horse studs (the calcium-based soil helps to strengthen their bones) and white wines. In more recent years, a number of growers have been making some deep-flavoured reds from vineyard sites, especially around Bonnievale. The tourist slogan for the area is "the valley of vines and roses" and in the late summer, the verdant vineyards are bordered by a wonderful show of roses and many other flowers. The Breede River is a vital source of irrigation but it is the numerous calcareous outcrops that make the soil so excellent for white grape-growing.
Sauvignon Blanc, 2005 Excelsior Estate, Ashton
Yellow-green in colour. Complex nose with passion fruit, guava and ripe fig aromas. Gooseberry and capsicum on a full, rich palate with a long sweet-fruited finish.
In the South Western Cape there is a great valley encircled by tall, gaunt mountains. A wide river meanders through the valley floor, which, during the millennia, created a fertile flood plain for itself. It is an arid land, for the mountains which shelter the valley also shield it from rainbearing clouds. The lack of rain matters not, for the early settlers soon learned to channel the river to irrigate the fertile plain. Here they planted their vineyards, orchards and pastures whose lush herbage makes a stark contrast to the thorny, stunted vegetation of the veld.
With the simplicity of nomads the first people who trekked through the valley gave places names as they beheld the natural phenomena. The mountains which form the northern border they are called the Langeberg, which in Dutch means Long Mountains, and those to the south they are called the Sonderendberge which are the Mountains which have no end. The river they named the Breede, which in English, would be the River Broad.
In 1859 a young man with energy and vision came to the valley and bought a large tract of land. He pioneered the channelling of the river to bring water to his fields. He planted crops and established vineyards and orchards and built a cellar which, because it was continually being extended, became known as the Long Cellar. In his old age he divided his land among three sons, the youngest of whom named his portion Excelsior. Stephen and Freddie de Wet who now own Excelsior are the fourth generation of De Wets to farm the land of their ancestor.
Throughout its long history Excelsior Estate has been prominent in many ventures. Before the advent of the motorcar, the best hackney carriage horses were bred at Excelsior. Later these gave way to thoroughbred racehorses, and today Excelsior boasts one of the most distinguished studs in South Africa. In the last fifteen years eight individual Classic winners were bred at Excelsior.
At the turn of the century when woman of fashion wore elegant ostrich plumes, Excelsior was at the forefront in the production of these. The large stately homestead with its ornately carved furniture bears evidence to the opulence of this area. The once famous herd of Friesland Cattle were sold when it was decided to concentrate on racehorses. Today large peach, apricot and citrus orchards are cultivated on the Estate, the fruit of which is mostly exported.
Excelsior Estate has over 200 hectares planted to vineyards. Of these Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc are the most important varieties. In 1981, a modern winery was constructed with adequate capacity to cater for further expansion. Great care was taken to select the best machinery to facilitate the vinification process.
The vineyards at Excelsior are all irrigated by drip irrigation and much emphasis is placed on applying the correct amount of water. Canopy management also plays an important role in the vineyard management and every effort is made to ensure harvesting is done at optimum ripeness. It is the philosophy at Excelsior that good wine is made in the vineyards and the winemaker can only succeed if he has good basic ingredients with which to work.
Wild Rush Cape Red 2005, Rietvallei Estate, Ashton
This Cabernet Sauvignon with a dash of Tinto Barocca has juicy berry tones and a mulberry palate with a vanilla savouriness, framed by good long tannins. The wine is smooth and well complimented by a subtle toastiness. This is a red wine made in the friendly new Cape style with no hard edges.
The Cabernet vineyards are planted on the highest hill of Rietvallei, called Klippiesdal and are between 3 and 12 years old. These vines thrive in the crisp, clean Klein Karoo air.
Rietvallei Wine Estate is one of the oldest Muscadel farms in Robertson and is situated in the Klaas Voogds area, eight kilometres east of Robertson. This picturesque valley, with its perennial mountain streams, owes its name to the intrepid pioneer, Claas Voogt, who in 1717 was trampled to death by an elephant in the Langeberge.
The history of Rietvallei started in 1864 when Alwyn Burger acquired the farm. He was also the first winemaker to make the Red Muscadel, which was for years the only wine featured on the Rietvallei portfolio. Today, his great great grandson, Johnny Burger, is the fifth generation on the farm.
In 1970, when Muscadel was still the only wine produced on the Estate, Johnny finished his military service and took over from his father. At that time he did not have much winemaking experience and it was not his father, but Jan Vytjie, a worker on the farm, who taught Johnny the process of Muscadel-making from a recipe, nailed behind the cellar door.
Today, the sixth generation of the Burger family is also part of the team. After a few years of graduating and practicing in Mechanical Engineering, Johnnys son, Kobus, joined him recently on the farm. Together father and son oversee the process from viticulture to vinification and produce Rietvalleis prestigious wines.
Johnny went to Elsenburg to master the finer details of winemaking. After a few years back on the farm, he decided to bottle his Chardonnay and the first vintage was released in 1987. Fourteen years later the Sauvignon Blanc followed and today his portfolio boasts with two new red wines: the Cabernet Sauvignon and the Shiraz.
Johnny is a man of nature and his passion has enabled him to introduce game to Rietvallei Estate. The farm now boasts Fallow-deer, Springbok and Eland, roaming in a camp on Rietvallei.