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Riesling


As the Pinot Noir is at its best in Burgundy so the white wines made from the Riesling (pronounced REES-LING) find their greatest expression in Germany's vineyards of the Rhein and Mosel-Saar-Ruwer. It has been successfully transplanted to many other countries yet rarely achieves the fine tuning and delicate balance of acidity, fruit and low alcohol which the cooler, more northerly soils of Germany can produce.

Characteristics: Strange as it may seem the aroma of a fine Riesling, particularly one with some age, is often referred to as 'petrolly'. Like the description of 'Cat's pee' sometimes mentioned with Sauvignon Blanc is something to be admired so this minerally, petrolly overtone is part of Riesling's unique blueprint. When younger the wines can exhibit a flowery, honeyed aroma and the freshness, raciness and fine delicacy of the palate is very beguiling. Great Riesling wines are also capable of very long life which is remarkable considering their lightness and relatively low alcohol. As a wine it can range in style from the bone-dry to the unctuously and hauntingly sweet. The French examples are grown in Alsace where it is regarded as the region's most noble variety.

Where is it found?: Germany, Alsace, Austria (where it is often called Weisser Riesling to distinguish it from the widely planted and lower quality Welschriesling. It is grown in Austria's neighbouring country Slovakia where it performs quite well. In Italy's higher Alto Adige vineyards and in much of Eastern Europe including Hungary. In the New World it has been widely planted in Australia and has performed particularly well again in some cooler regions like South Australia's Eden and Clare valleys. It is also relatively successful in New Zealand.

Food matches: In its drier forms as an aperitif, freshwater fish, chicken. In its fruitier forms with quiches and salads and roast pork with apples. In its sweetest forms as a digesitf on its own or as a foil to blue cheeses.

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